Housebreaking your new puppy
The following tips will help make housebreaking easier for you and your puppy:
· Feed him uniform amounts of food on a regular timetable during the housebreaking period. This makes it more likely that he’ll need to eliminate at regular intervals. Leave his food out for 20 minutes, then put it away, even if he hasn’t finished. He’ll soon learn to eat all of it as soon as it is available.
· When mealtime is over, take the puppy outside to a spot you’ve chosen as his outdoor bathroom. In an encouraging voice, give him a command like “Hurry Up!” or “Go To It!”. If you use this phrase each time you take him out, he’ll associate the words with the process of relieving himself and do what you ask.
· Accompany him outside first thing in the morning, last thing at night and anytime he finishes napping, drinking, playing or chewing on his toys. While he’s young, it is a good idea to take him out at least once an hour. This maximizes the likelihood that he’ll eliminate outside, thus giving you lots of changes to reward him and reinforce the lesson.
· When he’s done his job, praise him enthusiastically and take him inside. If you stay outdoors to play or go for a walk he’ll forget the original purpose of the trip outside. Once housebroken you can stay out and play.
· If you see your pet in the act of make a mistake indoors, say “NO” firmly and take him outside at once. Urge him to relieve himself, using your verbal command. When you return inside, clean the soiled area with an odor neutralizer available at pet stores. Unless you get rid of the scent completely, he’ll be drawn back to the area and may repeat his error.
· DO NOT try to correct your puppy for mistakes that occurred while you were gone; he won’t know what you’re upset about and will only become confused.
And don’t get angry when he eliminates in an appropriate place. Showing anger or “rubbing his nose in it” will only fright and confuse him.
· If you’re away during the working day, spread several layers of newspaper on the floor in him room. When you return, throw away any soiled paper and don’t replace it until you leave the next day. While you’re at home, continue training to eliminate outdoors. The purpose of the paper is only to protect the floors; don’t praise your pet for using it or he’ll get the idea that it’s okay to eliminate indoors.
· A puppy’s kidneys do not fully develop until they are 6 months old; so accidents are to be expected.
· In addition to being a safe haven for your dog when you are not home, a crate is an excellent means of housebreaking. Discuss this with your Breeder.
A PUPPY IS LIKE A YOUNG CHILD. THEY DO NOT KNOW WHAT IS ACCEPTABLE UNTIL YOU TRAIN THEM……
Chewing: This is a natural behavior for dogs. Puppies, like babies, need to teethe. Be sure your pet has several sturdy chews.
Jumping Up: Dogs usually jump up because they want to get closer to their owners’ faces. You can avoid encouraging your puppy to jump up on you by kneeling so that you’re on him level when you pet or talk to him. If he does jump up, don’t reinforce the behavior by petting him. Instead, use one of the following two methods to startle him into getting back on all fours, then praise him:
1. Put the puppy on his leash. When he jumps up, jerk the leash to the right and firmly say “NO”.
2. Put 10-15 pennies in an empty soda can and tape the opening shut. When your pet jumps on you,
shake the can vigorously and say “NO”. One that is naturally nervous or shy may not respond well
to the soda can technique.
Excessive Barking: If your puppy barks constantly while you’re at home, put him on the leash. When he barks, give the leash a corrective jerk and say “Cut!” or “Stop!”. If he barks when you aren’t at home, you need to find out why and remove whatever is causing this to happen.
Biting: Young puppies should be trained never to bite the hand that plays with, caresses, and feeds them. When a playful pup nips too hard, give his leash a corrective jerk and say “NO!”. then slowly resume play. If the puppy continues to nip, stop playing.
*This information provided by the Western Reserve Poodle Club.
Critical periods in a puppy’s life have been determined by behavioral scientists. It has been proven that early environment and socialization make lasting impressions on the puppy. The goal of socialization is to see that each puppy matures to his potential with confidence and without fear. Proper socializing ensures a well balanced, flexible animal that can take all kinds of situations in stride.
Following are the critical periods of a puppy’s development:
1st Stage (birth to 3 weeks): Needs food, warmth, sleep and their Dam (mother) – ears open/eyes open – beginning of tactile and visual stimuli.
2nd Stage (3-5 weeks): Period of very rapid sensory development, puppies see, hear and have the ability to learn “housebreaking” in the whelping box begins; low levels of unfamiliar auditory stimuli can be introduced.
3rd Stage (5-7 weeks): Weaning begins but puppies are kept with the Dam and siblings – Pups removed at this time do not socialize well with other dogs and may become fighters; human contact is important. Transfer of affection and dependency to humans requires hand contact.
4th Stage (7-8 weeks): Puppies fully weaned; brains are neurologically complete; introduction to new areas are recommended. May go to new homes; naturally destructive – everything goes in their mouths; brief excursions to all parts of the house; daily human contact is a must. Simple obedience commands can be done for fun. Introduction to housebreaking.
5th Stage (8-10 weeks): Flight/Fear imprinting period; care should be taken that nothing traumatic happens to puppy.
6th Stage (10-16 weeks): Period to develop independence and self-confidence and a strong bond with owners; cutting teeth begins (remember, a puppy is like a baby and looks for things to chew on.
Trauma that occurs during the 2nd and 5th stages will have a permanent effect on the pup. They will never be as well adjusted to people or new experiences.
Many puppies will be kept by a breeder for show evaluation. Do not be concerned about purchasing an older puppy that you feel comfortable with.
The New Puppy
The act of buying a dog is often an impulsive move. When you bring home a pet, you commit yourself to providing affection, play, training, grooming and exercise, in addition to food, shelter and medical care throughout his life. Be sure to think about these responsibilities before making your purchase. Once you’ve brought your puppy home, you can’t expect him to behave like a perfect house guest until you’ve invested the time and attention it takes to train him well. Even though you’re excited about your puppy, don’t invite the neighborhood over to meet your new dog on his first days at home. Spend some time getting to know him and letting him get to know you. Remember, he has just been moved to a new environment. Let your puppy get used to your family and his new environment in a calm, leisurely way. Take time to play, but give him a chance to sleep whenever he seems tired. TEACH THE CHILDREN TO TREAT HIM GENTLY AND TO LET HIM ALONE WHILE HE’S RESTING OR EATING.
Before your puppy arrives at your home, place his food and water dishes in the area where you intend to keep him. Have his bed ready, maybe an old, soft blanket placed in a quiet corner free from drafts. It’s a good idea to set up the bed in the room or area where you intend to confine your puppy while you are away. The ideal would be to place him in a crate (this is his own special place. As he grows older he will go there on his own when he wants to rest.) Leave a radio playing to keep him company. Your puppy will probably cry during the first few nights at home. Although the cries may be heartbreaking, you should leave him alone. After two or three nights, he’ll grow accustomed to his new surroundings.
Take the puppy to the vet within the first 48 hours that you have him. Even though his health is probably good, this will assure you of his health, and it is only fair to the Breeder that is anything is wrong, the pup can be returned immediately. During the first few weeks, a young dog needs twice the adult requirement of most nutrients. Remember to keep fresh, clean drinking water available at all times. Consult with your Breeder on the type of food the puppy is used to eating. The food should be one that is high in protein. The puppy should be fed three times a day. Scheduling his meals makes housebreaking easier.
Puppies receive their first antibodies through their mother’s milk. Most pups receive their first vaccinations at 6-8 weeks of age. A second and third set of shots should be given at 9-11 weeks and at 12-16 weeks. After that, you’ll need to take a dog to the Veterinarian’s office at least once a year for booster inoculations and an annual health exam. This trip is necessary even if your dog seems perfectly healthy.
Neutering your dog is strongly recommended if you do not have an agreement to breed your dog. Most breeders will insist on this. Neutering your pet can help prevent disease in later life. The decision not to breed your pet ensures that he or she won’t add to the population of America ’s homeless dogs. Each year, the majority of these unwanted pets must be humanely killed in animal shelters. If you breed, YOU are responsible for each puppy brought into this world. Also, breeders spend many years investigating dogs and their lines. Breeding is nothing to be taken lightly. Consult your vet for the best age at which to neuter your puppy.
Most dogs are joyous, effusive animals and often blessed with lots of energy. For your sake, for the peace of the neighborhood and for the pups own safety, train your pup to respond to the basic commands. There are many obedience classes that you can take your puppy for training. Talk with your Vet who may have a list of locations.
To help your pet become accustomed to daily separation, here are some guidelines:
- Place your puppy in the area he is expected to stay when you are not at home. Put on a radio and give him his toys to play with.
- Leave the house in a calm, upbeat and positive manner. Don’t act unhappy or upset at the fact you must part from your pet.
- Practice departing. Pick up your keys, put on your coat and say good-bye to the puppy. Leave and return in two or three minutes. Gradually increase the length of your absences until you can stay away for an hour or more without causing your pet to whine or chew on things. Repetitions of this sequence will help the pup get used to seeing you leave and understand that you’ll be back.
Why should I buy a poodle from you?
I breed for personality, confirmation and intelligence. I can determine a puppies personality and match it with a prospective buyer; a sturdier, larger toy for a young family, a dog with a softer temperament for an older person with no children. I breed out leg problems especially loose patellae which are common in toy breeds, and am careful of eye problems including PRA. Puppies do not leave Primrose Poodles until they are vet
checked, have their first vaccines and are groomed. Puppies are sold with limited AKC papers so that they do not end up in the hands of puppy mills. Only qualified puppies are sold as breeders.
Poodles come in three sizes: Standard (over 15”), Miniature (over 10” but not over 15”), and Toy (10” or under). The original Poodles were water dogs used for retrieving. Their conformation and the texture and pattern of their coats to this day reflect the purposes for which they were bred. Miniatures and Toys have been bred down from the larger Poodles and they exhibit the same general characteristics. The Poodle is an active, intelligent ruggedly-built dog which is at the same time elegant and refined. Well-bred Poodles in all three varieties have steady, calm nerves, hardy constitutions and they can be trained easily. A Poodle is a “person” and expects to be treated as one. A Poodle should be a member of the family. Prospective owners of Poodles should be equipped to provide a fenced-in area in which the Poodle can exercise, or be prepared to walk the Poodle regularly on a leash. Poodles permitted to roam are likely to be stolen or killed. Poodles require regular clipping. Poodles are not finicky eaters (unless made so by indulgent owners);
they thrive on simple, prepared dog foods.
Much time and effort in study, breeding, selection; and a breeding program is based upon the accumulated knowledge of which dogs to use to produce the best Poodles. Not all puppies in the litter will satisfy the definition of a show prospect. Maybe in a litter only one or two puppies will be retained for show; the others will be classified as pet puppies. The difference will be so small that only an expert Judge could tell the difference; the eyes may be a bit too light, the tail a bit too gay, or the hocks a bit straight. All Poodles in the litter will display essentially the same characteristics, the same quality of construction, personality and health. For a pet price, a prospective buyer can purchase a well-bred, professionally raised Poodle, backed by the integrity of the breeder accompanied by helpful advice, instruction, and the enduring interest of the breeder in the welfare of the dog which he is selling. Puppy mills and some pet shops exploit the popularity of the Poodle in order to make a fast buck. Temperament, breeding faults, and quality are secondary. They do not do health checks on the parents for potential problems. Although the puppy may be accompanied by a pedigree and “AKC” papers, eligibility for registration with the American Kennel Club is not a guarantee of health, disposition or quality.
Having purchased his beautiful Poodle from a reputable breeder; having noted all the helpful instruction and friendly advise of the breeder, the new owner should acquire and read books on the Poodle. Whether a Poodle owner becomes involved in the intriguing but complex hobby of breeding and exhibiting Poodles, or takes his pleasure in the happy association of a pet, he will find the Poodle a welcome member of the family.